Yi Xing Teapots

Mary R., a fellow tea enthusiast has just purchased a few YiXing teapots, so I thought that I would talk about them for just a bit :) I am sure that some of you who read my blog are well-seasoned (pun intended) on this topic. However, for those of you who are not, YiXing teapots are made of a special clay called Zisha which is only found in YiXing China, and thus the name.

What makes zisha clay so special?

Zisha clay is said to be seasoned when the clay has absorbed the tea essences as a result of the tea oils adhering to the teapot walls with continuous use. It this tea patina which is said to create the ultimate brew. In fact, some brewers suggest that this brewing method is so superior to that of others, they will exclusivly brew their teas only in YiXing teapots.

For further information on YiXing teapots, please refer to Guang's blog at houdeblog.com who is an expert on all things tea. Don't forget to also visit Mary R's blog PalaTabilitea, which is one of the most entertaining and cleverly written tea blogs out there at palatabilitea.wordpress.com

My YiXing Teapots




One very important note. YiXing pots must be well cared for. The clay is very porous and will absorb almost any smell that the pot comes in contact with, and in order for you to be able to use your pots for years to come, you must properly clean and store them. Keep them in an area away from foul smells and where oils may be lingering in the air such as in the kitchen. I personally keep mine in cotton bags in a closet. Furthermore, never use soaps or detergents to clean your YiXing. The videos below will show you a good way to "open" and clean your Yixing pots. For those of you who do not know what "opening" your teapot does, it removes the dust from the clay pores with the hope of filling them with tea oil. This is said to start the seasoning process much faster than it would otherwise. ENJOY!

-Note- As a consequence of the video being more than 5 minutes long, it abruptly cuts off. However, the person was shown placing a handful of tea leaves in the boiling pot and continues boiling the teapot in the leaves for another 30 minutes. After the 30 minutes, she removes the pot, rinsing it and then placing it in a well ventilated area to dry.

"Opening" Your YiXing Teapot



Cleaning Your YiXing Teapot

MengHai Lao Cha Tuo (Old Tea Nugget) 250g

Comming across this product while reading a post in the
LJ Community, there seems to have been some indecision as to whether or no this product is worth drinking. This really aroused my curiosity so I decided to buy, try and make my own judgement.



Product Research

As a consequence of the heat and pressure generated during the wo dui (ripening) process, a percentage of the fermented leaves will amass and take the form of little nuggets, which are said to be found near and at the bottom of the pile. After the shou is compiled, it is then fed into a disperser that sorts the leaves according to size, which are then subsequently pressed in to zhuan cha (brick tea). MengHai states that the leaves used in this product are 2 to 4 years old.

Initial Impresssion



This example does not look like any ripe zhuan cha that I have ever examined. When you look at it closely, you can see the tiny "nuggets". Nice color, smell and very
hard in texture.

Brewing Parameters

Water-Bottle spring water, generic brand. Source of water Lafayette Springs, WS



Amount – 5g

Water temp - Boil

Method - Gongfu/2 washes

Brewing Vessle - Yixing Teapot 150ml

Infusion times
1-15s
2-12s
3-15s
4-18s
5-21s


Tasting Notes



Aroma - The aroma was not lingering nor was it very intriguing. But of course you have to remember that it is shou.

Taste - The liquor was was somewhat malty with a sweet palate. Very smooth with virtually no bitterness. Not very complex however.

Overall Impresssions

Well to be frank, I was not impressed. It lacked the flavors, which I "personally" enjoy and felt that it was a little flat, with little viscosity. It is recommended that you use hot, and I mean hot water in order to extract any of the tea essence, as the nuggets are tightly formed. Perhaps I need to make the water boil for each infusion.

It is somewhat sweet, smooth with a hint of malt which could be a great choice for someone who wants to gradually enter the realm of shou. Would be ok for an everyday drinker. A delicate drink.

-Session Note-

As you can see, I did not give as an in-depth analysis on the product. I felt that it was not warrented as there was really no compexity to it and the taste did not develop, but only got weaker.

What I wish I knew when I started Collecting?

The ageing poten-tial of pu-erh tea is a topic that is often discussed among Pu-erh collectors. With the invested time it takes to age pu-erh, collectors undoubtedly want to invest in products which will provide a great return, both in flavor and in value. However, there are no easy formulas that collectors can employ which will simplify this task. For the most part, collectors have to rely on their taste and past successes to select a potential aging pu-erh candidate, and for some who are just starting out on their pu-erh collecting journey, their first foray into collecting can create much confusion and anxiety. With terms such as leaf grade, recipe codes, factory codes, sheng, shou, it is enough to make any novice’s head spin.

In the past, pu-erh was considered a "regular" commodity, and was meant to be drunk and enjoyed as part of daily life. The concept of pu-erh collecting did not start until much later. As a result, most early Hao (factories) had access to the finest leaves since the demand for pu-erh was not there. Interestingly however, we currently do not know what types of leaves were used in the early commercial production of pu-erh.

Why is this important you might ask?

After the Chinese Revolution and its subsequent planned economy, the Chinese Government had only allowed the use of plantation leaves for pu-erh production. As a result, the use of wild arbor leaves for pu-erh production was very uncommon. However, in the late ‘90s when the China National Native Produce and Animal By-Products Import and Export Corporation (CNNP), recognized a domestic surge in the demand for pu-erh tea, the CNNP felt it prudent to relax its tea ingredient directive allowing pu-erh manufactures to incorporate other materials into their stocks other than the sanctioned plantations leaves.

Currently, there is a trend for pu-erh factories to use wild arbor leaves in their productions. However, what concerns a number of pu-erh collectors is the uncertainty associated with using such leaves. As of now it is not known whether wild arbor leaves have the capacity for aging. Of course this is not to suggest that there aren’t any current prospects which are showing great aging potential; in fact there are many! Nonetheless, it is still not known if they can successfully reach the age of that of their predecessors. We can only wait and see.

Another interesting development in pu-erh production is the increasing practice of factories producing pu-erh entirely made of silver buds leaves. When it comes to pu-erh, "white pu-erh" is a totally foreign concept that had its inception around 5 or 6 years ago. However, as in the case of wild arbor leaves, its aging potential is yet to be determined. What is certain is that this practice has created two very opposing and different opinions. Some argue that silver bud pu-erhs are not well suited for long term ageing; suggesting that white pu-erh will lack in flavor and complexity to fully age. Others will suggest that silver bud pu-erh will age just fine, and its delicate flavors can mature. Of course the jury is still out, and IMHO, I am quite skeptical that it will have the necessary ingredients to fully reach maturity with the complexity needed to be a great pu-erh. Nonetheless, you can find them cheap so why not get a few ;)

What of leaf grade?

Leaf grade should be a no brainier when it comes to the potential for aging right? All you have to remember is that the lower the grade the better the pu-erh. Right? WRONG!

There are currently 10 leaf grades with the lower numbers representing finer, younger leaves while the higher numbers represent leaves which are older and less tender. For the most part, factories will blend different grades from different areas to produce a nice tasting pu-erh. The concept is no different than when Lipton blends teas to produce a consistent flavor. Leaf grade should only be used as a guide for selecting pu-erhs. A person would be selling themselves terribly short if they only decided to buy pu-erh strictly according to leaf grade.



There are a number of pu-erhs on the market which are made of higher grade leaves that are currently prized and sought after by collectors. For example, the MengHai’s 7572 , 8582 and 8592 are now showing great promise making these recipes a must have for any collection. In addition, the 7562 and the 7581 (ripe) brick teas from the MengHai and the KunMing factories are consistently getting better with age and are now commanding a hefty price for older examples.

What of the year 2004?

What is so special about the year 2004? Well, many pu-erh collectors will suggest that 2004 was the turning point for pu-erh - unfortunately for the bad. Before 2004, pu-erh was still relatively enjoyed only by the inhabitants of Tibet and Yunnan China and did not have the world appeal as it does today. I mean think about it, I’m sitting here in Minnesota writing about pu-erh!

Before 2004 the majority of pu-erh factories still had the capability of producing pu-erh made of the highest quality ingredients with ease. However, as result of pu-erh’s new popularity, factories have to, well to use a bad drug analogy, they have to “cut” their recipes in order to produce the quantity needed to meet the demand. As a result, some collectors will suggest that pu-erh made after 2004 will not be of the caliber to that of previous years. I have to do a bit more research on the veracity of these claims and will post my findings on future post.

Confused Yet? Well don’t be.

The only thing you can really do is learn from peoples' past mistakes. Pu-erh collecting is not a hobby where making mistakes can be considered a learning experience. Waiting 10 years to find out that your beeng or tuocha is not developing is definitely a big waste of resources. This is not to suggest that you shouldn’t buy a particular product for the fear of buying something not worth aging; to the contrary. What I am saying is - buy wisely. Here are a few tips which I have learned from collectors that I currently use to buy:

1. Do your research. You need to ask yourself some very specific questions when you buy. Find out what a factory has to offer in quality. Do they have examples of past successes? Have they won any awards for their efforts? Is their any buzz comming out of Yunnan and HongKong that is making a buzz? What are tea merchants saying about a particular product? Where were the leaves harvests? When were the leaves harvested? Remember some areas are more famous than others for a reason.

2. Buy time proven recipes. Usually, but not always factories will use a code to inform the consumer which blend they are buying. Recipes like 7432 7532 7581 and so forth have been around for thirty years or so. What should this tell you? It should tell you that the recipe is consistent and worth buying or the factories would have stopped producing it.

3. Test the product – Try to obtain a sample of a product that you are exploring and ask yourself: Does it taste good? Is it really swampy or fishy? Does it have a nice bitterness? Did the color, taste and aroma become weaker after only a few infusions?

In summary, I would like to say that collecting is a great joy and it is not meant to stress you out! When you become frustrated,
~ Just remember that its just tea~

References:

Chan Kam Pong "First Steps To Chinese Pu-erh"
Email Conversation with Houde Asian Art
Pu-erh, A Westerners Quest - Mike Petro pu-erh.net
Puerh Cha - puerhcha.com

MengHai DaYi 0622 Beeng Cha 375g

MengHai Factory DaYi Brand has introduced a new recipe for 2006 - the 0622. This MengHai product is quite unique in that it's an amalgamation of two very popular pu-erh recipes, the 92 Fang Cha (Brick Tea) and the 7532.

After winning second prize and the silver medal at the 13th annual Shanghai National Tea Culture Competition it has found favor within the pu-erh community. As a result, collectors and drinkers alike are speculating that prices for the 0622 will soar in the near future.

Initial Inspection






The 0622 is said to be made according to to the traditional method consisting of drying, kneading, steaming and its subsquent molding.

The mao cha is the correct size; thin and tiny. There is no doubt that the recipe is made of a second grade leaf blend. It has a nice active and clean scent; slightly floral with just a faint hint of smoke which is barely noticable. The beeng's compaction is not as hard as other '06 Menghai products that I have tried thus far. Although harder in the center, the edges seem to break off nicely. This brittleness will allow it to age nicely!

Brewing Parameters

Source - Dragon Tea House (Ebay Vendor)


Water-Bottled spring water. Source of water - Frontier Springs, PA

Amount – 5g

Water Temp - Boil then cooled for 3 breaths

Brewing Method - Gongfu

Brewing Vessle - Yixing Teapot 150ml

Infusion times
1-15s
2-12s
3-16s
4-17s
5-19s
6-22s

First Infusion



Aroma - Slightly metallic, with floral notes although not very lingering.

Taste - Young assertiveness is present, slightly bitter. Hard to separate flavors. Sadly to say, it is not very intriguing.

Color - Beautiful yellow hue. Crystal clear as it should be for a beeng of this caliber.


Second Infusion



Aroma - Metallic notes have waned some. Floral notes are a bit more noticable. Has a faint fruity aroma though not very concentrated - in fact it goes as fast as it comes.

Taste - Wow! More bitterness accompanied with a slight vegetation undertone. The flavor has become a bit more thick and lingering. Not very captivating.

Color - Still yellow with a flutter of amber. Clarity still present.

Third Infusion

Aroma - Floral notes are now quite faint. There still seems to be a hint of an indescribable sour-fruitiness. Interesting.

Taste - The bitterness has waned considerably. Vegetation notes still noticable. Still thick and lingering, however nothing really out of the ordinary.

Color - Consistent as last with no noticable change.

Color Differential of 6th Infusion



Spent Leaves



Nice plantation leaves of 2nd, and 3rd grades. As you can see they were exposed to a limited firing process as they are not very "bruised".

Overall Impressions

I was not impressed and expected more out of a silver medal winner. Although the beeng did create a clean taste and had its moments, it really lacked in oomph. Its infusions were just not very inspiring. It had a fragile aroma and its liqour was flat. I am sure that it will age nicely and gain character, however, in its present state, its a snoozer of a Gongfu session.

Prices for the 0622 are climbing and have surpassed the $16 USD that I had paid. In all honesty, your money would be better spent on something else. In my opinnion, it did not live up to the buzz at all. AM I MISSING SOMETHING!

My only recommendation would be to store and age them as I will do with all of mine and wait and wait and wait and then see. ARGHH!!

-An imporant note- I did use a different spring water. There could be a slight chance that the the water is weak in mineral content, and it is known that soft water will create a weak liqour. If this is the case, I am quite leery that it will improve the aroma. I will brew it again with different water and post my results.

-UPDATE

Salsero, a fellow tea enthusiast had motivated me to have a chemist friend do some analysis and evaluation on the water that I had used for this particular gongfu session. After evaluating a sample of the water, the results showed that it's mineral content was somewhat lower in content than the brand of water that I had been using on a regular basis, particularly its calcium and sodium content. Well to make a long story short, my friend readjusted the water with a bit of gypsum and sodium bicarbonate to what is comparble in in nature, and VOILA it did the trick! It REALLY made the difference. The water adjustment had brought out more flavors! The flavors are the same as they were in my review, however, they were more noticable and lasted a bit longer on the palate. The adjustment didn't help the aroma much as I had suspected. But nonetheless, it was a significant improvement - and with all pu-erhs, it will improve more with age.

Simao Changing City Name To That Of Famous Tea

BEIJING, -- No specialties in China have ever been so flattered as to serve as a city's name. That is until now, with a type of tea.

With approval from the State Council, Pu'er is to replace Simao as the name of the tea-growing city in Southwest China's Yunnan Province. According to the city's publicity bureau, the city will be officially renamed in April at the forthcoming Pu'er Tea Culture Festival.

Bureau sources have given two reasons for the name change.

First, it is a historical regression. The government of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) first established an administrative zone named Pu'er Tea zone in 1729, which gradually developed into Pu'er County until the central government named it Simao in the 1980s.

The second reason is to promote production and sales of the local Pu'er tea in a bid to compete with several other cities including Kunming, which also produce Pu'er tea.

With half of the city's population engaged in Pu'er tea production, the sales value of the Pu'er tea reached 80 million yuan (10.25 million U.S. dollars) last year in Simao.

The city wants tea sales to reach 500 million yuan (64.1 million dollars) by 2010.

It has even invested 100 million yuan (12.82 million dollars) to build a large-scale Pu'er Tea Garden a sort of a living museum.

Located in southwest Yunnan and bordering Vietnam, Laos and Myanma, Simao bridges China with the rest of Southeast Asia.

Tea from here is traditionally made with leaves from a variety of old wild tea trees known as "broad leaf tea trees", and it is typically available as loose leaf or as cakes of compacted tea.

It is enjoyed for its mellow taste and medicinal qualities, and is often referred to as a "drinkable antique". The older, the more fragrant and tasty it becomes, the more it costs.

Last month in Guangzhou, capital of Guangdong Province, 100 grams of the prized 60-year-old Pu'er tea sold for 300,000 yuan (38,400 dollars).

Pu'er tea has been popular among investors in China's Hong Kong, Macao, Taiwan, Japan, and the Republic of Korea since the 1970s.

Source: China Daily
Editor: Jiang Yuxia

The Living Tea

The young pu-erh needs to be nurtured and cared for. Its youthful essence can challenge the soul. It will shout and demand your attention, testing your limits with its adolescent bitterness. However, with patients and understanding it will ask you for forgiveness and make you smile with its floral and honey notes.


The mature pu-erh will show its well deserved complexity. Its notes which were once reminiscent of meadow grass, the orchids of spring, and the brassiness of youth are now replaced with a sincere and mature woodiness. Now strong and bold with the urge to make a statement; it is proud to be known as refined.

The antique pu-erh has battled many seasons and has absorbed the winds of its circumstances. As the victor in the challenge of time, it displays its aged leaves from a generation gone with honor and grace. It has grown into twilight with no complaints, and nothing more to prove. It is joyful to tell you where it has been and the lives it has touched. A story of wisdom in every sip.

"Spring Of MengHai" Chi Tse Beeng Cha 400g

"The Spring of Menghai' Chi Tse Beeng Cha is among one of the highest quality raw Pu-erhs that the Menghai Tea Factory currently produces. After its first introduction in 2005 and its subsequent success the MengHai Factory has decided to produce it again for 2006.

The "Spring of MengHai" is made from unblended early spring raw materials from the famous forrest of Xishuangbanna. Tender leaves are plucked from centuries old Wild Arbor trees, sun-dried, steamed (to make them soft) and subsequently pressed to a lovely beeng. Intrestingly, the Spring of MengHai was also produced with a sister beeng as the MengHai Factory does at times with its premium products - the “Star of Menghai”, a ripe beeng Cha.

Initial Inspection

As you will notice, the beeng was not accompanied with a recipe code since it is made of unblended mao cha.

The beeng does not smell of smoke whatsoever. It smells almost like a Japanese Sencha! The beeng is extremely hard which will make it more difficult to age. The leaves all seem nice and regular with a mixture of silver tender buds and broad type leaves.

Brewing Parameters

Source - Dragon Tea House (Ebay Vendor)

Water-Bottle spring water, generic brand. Source of water Lafayette Springs, WS

Amount – 5g

Water Temp - Boil then cooled for 3 breaths

Method - Gongfu

Brewing Vessle - Yixing Teapot 150ml

Infusion times
1-15s
2-12s
3-16s
4-17s
5-19s
6-22s

First Infusion



Aroma - Prounounced honey, with a floral background; no smoke.

Taste - No "young" aggressiveness at all. Sweet with a slightly bitter, and lingering finish.

Second Infusion



Aroma - I have smelled this wonderful permeating honey before! - the YanChing Hao pu-erh beeng! Although not as floral, the similarities are definitely there! The YanChing Hao is an ultra premium beeng that commands a premium price (for a further descrption please visit www.houdeasianart.com pu-erh section). The honey laden aroma is now mingling with a sweet grass note.

Taste - Still nicely sweet and floral - bold! Intrestingly, there is no added bitterness that can at time accompany the second infusion but only the same invigorating tease! Still no smoke. There is now a nice undertone of dried apricots. Exceptionally refreshing!

Third Infusion

As you can see, there is no change in color after the third infusion



Aroma - Similar to the first and second infusions with its honey and floral notes. However, there seems to be more of a metallic whiff as it cools. Nice!

Taste - Clean and lingering finish, still pleasantly bitter-sweet on the tongue with the floral and dried apricots cascading through.

Spent Leaves



Nice early, healthy leaves. Since this is my first "Spring of Menghai" beeng cha, I really have no comment.

Overall Impressions

If you enjoy the taste of young pu-erh but not its astrigency, then I would defnitely recommend getting the Spring of MengHai. It was a delightful brew; both refreshing and quenching. The subsequent brews for the most part all had honey, dried apricots and sweet floral notes. What's not to love! Although fantastic to drink now, it will age nicely as all of the indicators were there.

Breaking Up Is Hard To Do

I remembered sometime ago, a comment was made asking - " how do you break up the pu-erh for brewing"? Well, luckily while meandering through the net searching for unrelated pu-erh information I had came across these great informative pics! Hope you enjoy them!

Breaking up a Beeng



Gently insert the point of the knife with care.



Continue adding pressure carefully



Lift the separated layer gently to weaken the the leaves further




Continue finding and dislogding the weakened leaves



Nice pieces for brewing




Breaking Up Tuocha



Insert the pick inside the bowl as it is the weakest part



Continue to gently dislodge the leaves



When you feel that you have weakened a segment of the toucha from the inside, now do the same from the outide in order to further weaken a segment of the toucha.



Perfect



Breaking up Zhuancha "Brick Tea"

Start from a the short-side corner



Further insert the knife until you have separated a piece suitable for brewing



Lift gently until the piece breaks off



Finished!




Image Source: forum.taobao.com

The Woes of Collecting Pu-erh

When I first started collecting pu-erh, the possibility of someone selling me a counterfeited product never had crossed my mind! After all its just TEA! Right? Luckily, the teas I have purchased thus far are all genuine. (Big sigh) But how is it that a food product, tea of all things, has become the target of fraud? Well, after pondering on this for a while I have come up with a few possible reason why. First, the demand for quality pu-erh products in the western market has continued to rise. This alone gives ample opportunities for crooks to sell counterfeited teas to an uneducated market. Secondly, it is relatively easy to get low quality leaves and print a few nei feis, description tickets and wrappers, and present them as genuine. Third, which I personally feel is the biggest motivation behind counterfeiting - when people pay on the upwards of $600 USD for a tong of (7 Beeng Cakes) 2004 Yan Ching Hao it is definitely worth the risk. These factors coupled with the ever-growing tea business which is now speculated to reach $10 BILLLION USD by 2010, it is easy to see why. IT'S BIG BUCKS!!!

But how can collectors positively know they are paying for a genuine product? Well, honestly, you can't. This is just the reality that most collectors of Pu-erh have to endure; especially if you live in the U.S. or Europe. (Of course unless you have the luxury of having a tea shop in your area that sells a wide variety of teas including pu-erhs that allow you to inspect and taste the teas before you buy them. But trust me in Minnesota where jasmine is considered an “exotic” tea this is not going to happen.)

In response to the evergrowing counterfeit problem, tea producing countries are currently taking measures to safeguard their tea economies. For instance, the Taiwanese Government has adopted DNA encryption technology as part of their strategy to combat fraud and counterfeit operations. This DNA Anti-Counterfeit label is designed to make it cost prohibitive, if not impossible for counterfeiters to duplicate. And according to the Taiwan government, the technology has made it easier to quickly differentiate genuine products from counterfeited ones. Of course I understand that pu-erh does not come from Taiwan, however this example underscores the extent of the problem which exists. What is not known is if China will follow. In researching for this topic I have found no evidence that China is making any strides of implementing this practice. However, there are a few reasons to breath a sigh of relief. The Meng Hai and Xia Guan factories have taken matters into their own hands having developed micro print labels that are hard to reproduce.

The new Meng Hai Anti-counterfeit label





Here are a few tips I use to safeguard my investment. Maybe they will help you.

1. Research – I can not stress the importance of researching the products that you are thinking of buying. Read blogs, websites, publications, magazines; this alone will take you a long way. You should know how a particular product should smell, taste, and look like etc. Obtain samples of aged pu-erh and ripe pu-erh so you can get your palate accustomed to what both taste like.

2.Find a reputable vendor and become friends - Be loyal. (Of course only if they have great service) Vendors make their money on the comeback and will be more conscience when they sell to someone who loyal as they want to retain your business.

3. Ask questions - Trust me they won’t be offended if you do. They are there to sell you tea! If you are bargaining with a vendor and even remotely sound like you know what you are talking about, vendors are less likely to sell or send you a fake!

4. Take advantage of vendors that are located in the U.S. - Albeit, this alone will not be a guarantee but at least you can have comfort in knowing that it will be easier to resolve the problem in the event that a counterfeit product was sold to you.

5. Be critical of overseas vendors - I know that many of us buy teas online from overseas vendors for the convenience and price. In fact, I buy a great numbers of teas online directly from China. However, as the old Latin adage goes Caveat emptor – Buyer Beware! This is not to suggest that that there aren’t any great overseas vendors out there, but if you come across a website that doesn’t have computer based shopping with encryption and/or will only allow funds to be mailed or transferred through bank wire. These types of transactions should be taken as red flags . Try to find vendors that have a physical address and telephone numbers email etc. Email them and see if they email you back. Ask to talk to them on the telephone. Do they have customers rating? Use your common sense. How long have they been in business? When is the last time the website was updated? JUST USE YOUR GOOD JUDGMENT! Here are a few overseas vendors that I have delt with and have recieved nothing but great service: Jing Tea Shop, Dragon House (Ebay vendor), Yunnan Sourcing (Ebay vendor), TeaSpring

6. Buy samples - If you have the opportunity of buying samples from the dealers, DO SO! This is not only a learning tool, it’s also a great way to let vendors know you are a serious buyer.

Reference
http://www.adnas.com

Invest in T Bills or Tea?

BEIJING Five years ago, Yang Chunyan had never tasted pu'er tea. But after just one sip of the smooth, dark brew, the Beijing native was hooked. Now, Yang has opened the Aromatic Pu'er Tea House, a tiny shop located on Gulou Dong Dajie, a busy street in the center of town. "Lots of people are interested," she said. "In Beijing, pu'er tea is starting to become a trend."

Although tea drinking has been part of Chinese culture for 3,000 years, the capital's connoisseurs have only recently developed a craze for pu'er, a special aged tea indigenous to Yunnan Province in the southwest. Like vintage wine, pu'er, which is stored in compressed cakes, mellows over time, and its value appreciates. In China's supercharged economy, where no investment opportunity goes unnoticed, pu'er's popularity has sparked a wave of collectors, many of whom see the tea as a worthy speculation.

"Tea never goes bad, so it's a good investment," said Ji Xiaofeng, who manages a stall at Maliandao, Beijing's wholesale tea market. Last year, 500 grams of tea, or about 17 ½ ounces, preserved since the 1940s sold at auction for 1 million yuan, or about $125,000, he said. More modest investors can expect new tea, which sells for about 2,000 yuan per kilo, to double in value in five years.

"If you invest in the stock market, you might lose every penny. But if you invest in pu'er, it will only go up," Yang Chang, a pu'er tea collector based in Kunming, the capital of Yunnan Province, said in a telephone interview. "This is a good, low-risk way to earn money."

Prized for its earthy, rich flavor, pu'er is a large-leafed tea gathered from centuries-old trees that thrive in Yunnan Province's changeable climate and acidic soil. After the leaves are harvested, they undergo a traditional process of compression and fermentation, which brings out the tea's particular qualities. "It has a special mildewy scent," said Shi Zongkai, a Tsinghua University professor and pu'er tea enthusiast. Some believe this mildew, which accumulates as the tea ferments, has unique health benefits, including weight loss, he added.

Yang Chang, who has collected pu'er for more than 30 years, has spent two decades researching the tea's purported medicinal properties at the Yunnan Kunming Miao Xiang Research Center.

His studies examine the effects pu'er may have on lowering cholesterol and preventing cancer. "This is my life's work," he said. Yang said these perceived medicinal qualities have contributed to pu'er's recent increased popularity. Pu'er has long been celebrated as a folk remedy, he said, adding, "Now, people care more about their health than ever before."

Though pu'er tea collectors abound in southern China, particularly Hong Kong, Taiwan and Yunnan, tea companies have only recently started to promote their product to northern Chinese consumers. Four years ago, the Yunnan provincial government sponsored a pu'er advertising campaign in the capital to promote the brew's health benefits.

Last year, Zhang Guoli, a popular Chinese actor and director, arranged for a horse caravan to travel a historic route from Yunnan to Beijing, while carrying a precious load of tea. The arduous six-month journey, which gave the tea time to ferment in the traditional manner, was widely covered in the local media. "It really introduced pu'er tea to most Beijingers," said Yang Chunyan, the tea house owner.

Pu'er's new popularity has had an impact at Beijing's Maliandao tea street market, where a two-story building filled with stalls dedicated solely to pu'er opened last year.

In another neighborhood, Yang Chunyan's pu'er tea shop has seen a small but steady flow of customers since it opened in April, and she is confident that people are becoming more interested in her product. "Southerners have collected pu'er for 20, 30 years, but many northerners still don't understand it," she said. She offers tea tastings to novice enthusiasts, educating them on the characteristics of fine leaves. "Pu'er is a drinkable antique," she said. "I love the culture of this tea, and I am thrilled to introduce it to others."

Shi, who discovered pu'er during a two-year stint working in Yunnan Province, enjoys comparing tea from different years of production. "Pu'er from the '70s, '80s, '90s, they all taste different," he said. "It's like comparing wines from France, California, Australia."

Yang Chunyan is one connoisseur who does not collect the tea, despite her passion for it. "I just like the taste," she said. "Collecting it is too expensive."

From his stall at the wholesale tea market, Ji Xiaofeng said that pu'er prices have skyrocketed in recent years. "If you have money, you can participate in the auctions," he said. "But recently, it's been more difficult to find aged tea, and there have been fewer pu'er auctions."

Yang Chunyan agreed. "Auctions are very scarce these days," she said. "And the people who participate are rarely pu'er experts. I don't even know if they drink the tea."

For some, however, aged pu'er is not the best. Yang Chang, who is known as a pu'er expert, prefers young tea - about two or three years old - as it is "the best for your health," he said. "Tea that is 20, 30, 40 years old has lost all of its valuable elements," he added. "Besides, it's becoming too hard to find."

In fact, the recent demand for aged pu'er has led to an increase in fake tea - pirated pu'er - that some purveyors try to pass off as vintage. Tea producers have developed a way to accelerate the fermentation process, which results in a weak-flavored brew, Shi said. "Most people prefer naturally fermented tea, and the prices reflect this,' he said.

It is a combination of flavor and culture that keeps pu'er lovers brewing fresh pots of tea. "I like the taste, the health benefits, the cultural experience of drinking it," Shi said. "When I make a cup of pu'er, it reminds me of my time in Yunnan Province. I can taste the history of the tea, the age of it. This experience is not possible with any other kind of tea."


By Ann Mah International Herald Tribune
'The rewards of a 'drinkable antique'

2004 Xia Guan Toucha 100g

This is the 2004 "Te Ji" (Superior Grade) toucha from Xia Guan Tea Factory which was noted in the "First Steps to Chinese Pu-erh Tea" as being a notiable choice for collectors. Previously, the Xia Guan Factory had considered a the "Jia Ji" toucha as its higher grade leaf blend. However, the "Te Ji" toucha is now designated as its factory's flagship toucha offering.

The Xia Guan Factory first introduced the "Te Ji" or Best Grade Tuo (Bird's Nest) Cha in 2003. However, the 2004 is the first series of Xia Guan products to have incorporated on its bag antifraud micro-print with the words "Xia Guan" in an effort to frustrate would-be counterfeiters.

Initial Inspection

My first initial impression was that it was going to be a smoky brew when the first waves of its pungent smoky aroma had registered. It had seemed that it had not mellowed with almost 3 years of aging. The leaves were nice and tight, with silvery buds intermingling with the green pu-erh leaves. It looked typical for a toucha. Unfortunatly, with very little signs of aging.

Brewing Parameters

Source - Hou De Asian Art

Water-Bottle spring water, generic brand. Source of water Lafayette Springs, WS

Amount – 5g

Water Temp - Boil then cooled for 2 breaths

Method - Gongfu

Brewing Vessle - Yixing Teapot 150ml

Infusion times
1-15s
2-12s
3-16s
4-17s
5-19s
6-22s
7-25s
8-29s

First Infusion

First Infusion - Smoky yet floral with an undertone of rubber as it cooled.

Taste - Slighlty bitter, however not as bitter as I thought it would be for being so young; nutty with a lasting finish.

Second Infusion -

Aroma - Smoke and rubber has waned some; floral notes are now more pronounced.

Taste - Bitter on the back of the tongue; still playfully nutty with rubber notes comming through.

Third Infusion -

Aroma - Floral notes still present, smelling more "tea" now. Smoke is completely gone, however the rubber notes are still there albeit faint.

Taste - Wow, more rubber, wasn't expecting that since its not as noticeable in the aroma! Taste is very thick and lingering; floral notes are now mostly cascading in to rubber tones, but marrying well with the "tea" notes.

Spent Leaves -

Nice looking leaves which I would expect from a Te Ji label. Very nice and healthy plantation leaves.

Overall Impression

Its aging potential is not in question. However, from my initial inspection, the toucha did not look much different that others which I have of newer vintage. My assumptions were proven incorrect with the first taste. At first I assumed that the smoke would permeate the entire session, but to my suprise it was not a factor. Furthermore, the liquor was a deeper golden hue than that of a newer pu-erh which is also indicative of some aging. In opinion still too young to drink and to recieve any substantial pleasure. However, with the notes that I had tasted, it was a great investment and will age nicely. I believe they will compete very well with other touchas on the market today that cost more. Good find!